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Hot Tub Chemical Instructions
A Guide to Spa Water Chemistry
Initial treatment for fresh water:
(DO NOT RUN THE HOT TUB UNTIL THE WATER IS AT THE PROPER LEVEL)
Fill the hot tub with fresh water to the recommended level. The water line should be approximately half way up the top skimmer.
Now you can turn the power on to your Hot Tub. You may want to bleed air from the filter canister and pumps to ensure the pumps will be primed.
Once the temperature of your hot tub reaches about 80 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius), you can start adding chemicals. Warm water will allow the granular chemicals to dissolve properly.
Add 1 capful of a stain and scale control product and 1 capful of spa water clarifier.
Test and adjust the alkalinity of the water to 100. Add alkalinity up to raise the alkalinity of the water or add spa decrease to lower the alkalinity.
Test and adjust the pH of the water to 7.6 - 8.2 by adding either a capful of pH up or pH down (add pH up if the pH tests low and vice versa). Allow the water to filter for 30 minutes before retesting the pH.
Sanitizing the hot tub water - there are 2 different methods, choose only 1. Never use both bromine and chlorine.
Method 1 (The most common treatment for today’s spas).
2 - part bromine (100% Chlorine Free) system: Add 2 ounces of Granular Bromine and 2 oz. of Non Chlorine Shock per 200 gallons this will start your Bromine Bank. Now fill floating dispenser with bromine tabs and place in hot tub water. Floater should always contain tabs and remain in the water. Use Non Chlorine Shock every few days or after a large bather load. Check floater every week and shock more frequently if testing detects low bromine levels.
Method 2 (Not recommended for spas with Ozonators).
Granular chlorine system: Add 1 capful of Granular Chlorine. Now fill floating dispenser with Chlorine Tabs and place in hot tub water. Floater should always contain tabs and remain in the water. Shock with 2oz. of Granular Chlorine after a large bather load. Check floater every week and shock more frequently if testing detects low sanitization levels.
***If you are new to water maintenance, test your hot tub water daily to ensure you have a proper sanitizer level. If you are using an ozonator, you can keep the bromine level at the low end of 'ideal' on your test kit scale. You will find that your spa will use less of your sanitizer because the ozone is killing most of the bacteria and viruses. Because you are using fewer chemicals with an ozonator, balancing becomes easier and less time consuming.
Hot Tub\Spa Chemicals 101
Sanitizers kill the bacteria that can grow in warm water. Here's a quick rundown on the different types of sanitizers:
Bromine: Bromine can be added to a hot tub in the form of tablets, nuggets or granules. One form is sodium bromide, which needs to be activated with an oxidizer such as chlorine or Potassium Monopersulfate (non-Chlorine) shock. Many people choose bromine over chlorine because bromine is an effective sanitizer in hot tubs as it doesn’t “gas off” at temperatures higher than 98 degrees and produces fewer odors than chlorine. Bromine works in a wide range of pH levels. Bromine is generally distributed through a floating feeder or cartridge system.
Chlorine: You're probably familiar with chlorine as the primary sanitizer used in pools. Chlorine can be used in a different concentration in hot tubs. There are chlorine tablets and chlorine granules created specifically for hot tub use.
Mineral Spa Care: You can use mineral systems to replace, your sanitizers (if you have an ozonator and use Ozone) keeping your hot tub clear of contamination. Mineral cartridges are typically placed inside your filter cartridge or are contained in a floating dispenser through which the sanitizing minerals are slowly released into the water over time.
Ozone: Ozone is an oxidizer (Non chlorine shock Potassium Monopersulfate) and not a sanitizer, but it reduces the work of the sanitizers and lowers the level of sanitizers needed in the spa to keep it clean. The ozone process requires that your hot tub is equipped with a piece of equipment called an “ozonator.” Even if you have an ozonator, you will need to supplement your water with a low level of sanitizer like bromine, chlorine or a mineral system. (Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. The idea that a hot tub can be thoroughly sanitized with ozone alone is a myth.) Ozone is compatible with bromine, chlorine and mineral systems.
Important: Before adding any sanitizing agent to your hot tub, you must first test the current levels by using a test strip. Test strips are easy to use and formulated to measure the level of bromine, chlorine, or mineral content in your hot tub water along with your pH levels and calcium levels.
Alkalinity control: Total alkalinity refers to the ability of the water to resist changes in pH. Controlling alkalinity can help keep your pH in the appropriate range thereby lessening the need for pH balancing. If your test strip indicates a need, you can lower alkalinity using a pH reducer (just like lowering your pH only you’ll use more of it). Or, if you need more alkalinity, you can use an alkalinity increaser.
pH: OK, let's start with the obvious question. What is pH? Water pH is a measurement of the concentration of hydrogen ions in your hot tub water. Without getting into a freshman chemistry lesson, let's just say that pH is important because if you don't keep the pH levels within a small range (7.4-7.8), your water can become too alkaline or too acidic. If your pH is too low (less than 7.2), the water is too acidic and it can corrode parts of your hot tub and irritate parts of yourself (like your skin). If your water is above 7.8, it is too alkaline which can cause "scaling" from minerals and metals in your water forming deposits and possibly stains on your hot tub's acrylic surface. So, how do you know if your pH is in the right zone? First you need to test your water using a test strip. Then, use pH additives to achieve the right pH balance. When you change your water, you can add a pH product that will help prevent you from having to use any pH balancing agents until the next time you change your water.
Heavy Metal: Some local water contains unusual amounts of iron or copper. A greenish tint in your water may indicate the presence of these metals. If this is the case in your area, resist the temptation to file for mining rights. These pesky metals can, among other things, stain your hot tub shell, increase your sanitizer consumption or foul your tub’s water heater. Fortunately, you can control metals by using an additive when you change your water.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using metal-removing products. You will probably need to add this product each time you add make-up water or refill your hot tub. Be sure to clean your filter after using the product or you may have to use a metal removing product on a weekly basis.
Weekly maintenance:
Test water for bromine (or chlorine), pH and alkalinity.
Adjust pH to 7.4 – 7.8 and alkalinity to 100.
Add 1 ounce of stain and scale control and 1 ounce of a spa clarifier like Natural Clear. If your hot tub has an ozonator, you may find that you don't need to use a spa clarifier at all because ozone acts as a flocculent, allowing smaller particles to be filtered out.
Repeat sanitation as in the "initial treatment" (add bromine or chlorine as needed).
Rinse off the filter cartridge with fresh water. Soak the filter in cartridge cleaner monthly or more frequently if you have a large bather load.
Cleaning your hot tub:
Drain your hot tub water every 3 months, depending on use. Turn the main power off to your hot tub before you drain it. If your hot tub has an ozonator, changing your hot tub water may only be necessary every 4 months.
Add 1/2 cup bleach to 3 gallons of water and sponge clean your hot tub shell. Rinse with fresh water and dry hot tub with large towels.
The filter should be cleaned every month or more frequently for high bather loads. Soak overnight in a cartridge cleaner and rinse well before replacing in hot tub.
Refill hot tub with fresh water to the recommended level. The water line should be approximately half way up the top skimmer. DO NOT RUN THE HOT TUB UNTIL THE WATER IS AT THE PROPER LEVEL AND AFTER YOU DO #5
You may want to bleed air from the filter canister and pumps to ensure the pumps will be primed. Look for tiny plastic thumb screws on your filter and your pumps and unscrew briefly to let the air escape.
If you have a timer, set your hot tub to filter on low speed for a minimum of 3 hours for every twelve hour period.
We offer energy efficient and green equipment for your swimming pool, hot tub and spa. Updating your swimming pool equipment or going GREEN provides an energy efficient savings that can pay for its self over a short period of time. We can provide you with an enjoyable swimming pool, spa or hot tub experience while saving on the environment.
For a quote on anything for your swimming pool, spa or hot tub
email us at TurnKeyPoolService@gmail.com or call Kerry at 480-460-1612.
